Thinking it over
After some time well spent thinking about my car, it seemed the better idea to do the job right. Afterall, when I'd be doing the front suspension, and I'd be wanting to galvanize the metal parts at a later stage, I'd had to remove the suspension twice. A decent converstation with Scimitar-connoisseur Jaap Borgman convinced me. May 6, 2003 I started the dismantling.

How to proceed
With the manual on the workbench, I started. While working it become obvious what the logical working order is. Here are my hint 'n' tips:

1) Front subframe
The subframe is located under the spare. It is the main support for the nose.

2) Front bumper
The bumper is attached to the body with 2 x 3 bolts. To reach these bolts you have to remove some parts. (see step 1, I found out the hard way) The bumper is not heavy, but it is better to remove it with a helper. To avoid damage to the body.

3) Rear bumper
The rear bumper is attached to the body with 2 x 4 bolts. The bolts are very hard to reach. You have to decide what is moe important to you - your bumper or your skin. I chose the bumper. Auch. During the day I removed the bumper, my co-workers asked me if I had a fight with the wife again.... When you do not have 1,3 meter arms with two elbows, you need help - with the bumper that is. The tools I used; iron saw; bolt cutter; flex joint wrenches. Oh yeah, and a lot of fanatism. Some saw remove the rear lights and rear wiper, but I didn't. These (small) bolt wre stuck too...

5) Body
Now the body is attached to the chassis with a few bolts. Mechanical connection and some electrics were disconnected. A thorough inspection of any non-factory "extra's" before lifting is advicable. I did not dind any extra wiring or inforcements. The actual lifting is quitte simple but I neede 6 hours on your own. I wanted to place the body onto two studs in my narrow garage and that took some thinking time.
Inside the wheelarchespfront and rear, there are 6 GRP plates I removed (2x2 front and 2x1 rear).

I jacked up the car with a big model jack and then I put a piece of steel just above the front wheels (This only work - space! - with a jacked up car) just before the suspensiontowers. Next point as supporting the steel pieces on both sides (with anything you can get your hands on). Then I lowered the chassis. I heard a screeching noise of the isolation strip between the body and chassis tearing up, but after that nothing (pffeeeww...).
Then I jacked up the rearside of the car. I repeated the excersize of the front here. The chassis is now free from the body. Alas, I could not wheel the chassis out. I did not jack up the body high enough. I araanged a few good men to lift the body manually and filling the body supports. Again alas. The rearwhees could not come free enough. More jacking was out of the question, because of the limited stability of the supports. I fixed this problem by replacing the rearwheels with round pieces of wood, just big enough to carry the chassis. On a Scimitar the reardrums are not the lowest point of the chassis. And then I could wheel out the chassis at last!

7) The rest
The rest of the chassis was no problem. The only point of attention is the special rings of the bolts on the front spring assembly. The chassis has holes for these bolts and the rings prevent wear of the holes. I was unaware and I lost one of these.

The end
The dismantling process lasted about four weeks, only working evenings and weekends, By taking care I had no damage to the body and chassis and I might be able to re-use all the parts.